Dune 45: sunrise with a view of the breathtaking Namib Desert

If you travel to Namibia, you probably imagine vast open spaces. Wide open spaces that are mainly dry and look like desert. And that is exactly what you find in Namibia. The Namib Desert is one of the oldest deserts in the world and, with a total area of around 95,000 km², also one of the largest. What is special about this desert is that it lies directly by the sea and stretches along the coast for 2,000 km. Famous Dune 45 at sunrise is something you really should see on your own trip to Namibia – in the morning it glows a deep red. If you drive from Sesriem into the park, you will come across this 170 metre high dune exactly after 45 km.

Dune 45 at sunrise: an early start is essential

We spent two nights at the dunes, staying at Sesriem Campsite. That has a big advantage: you sleep inside the park and can set off for Sossusvlei an hour before the general park visitors. This is because the inner gate opens an hour before sunrise. The campsite, like many others in Namibia, belongs to NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resort), which is 100% state-owned.

Our plan is to be at Dune 45 for sunrise so we can watch the sun rise over the desert from there. An early start is essential because the gate opens at 6.30am. So the alarm goes off at 6am. Get up, pack away the roof tent and then straight to the gate, because the sun is not going to wait for us.

It is still pitch dark, and we are not the only ones who want to set off early. We can already hear car engines everywhere. Of course, it is summer in Namibia and from 10am it is so hot that it is almost unbearable in the sun – especially here, where the sand heats up extremely. So we hurry and are actually at the gate shortly before 6.30am. To our astonishment we find that it is already open. Far in the distance we can see the rear lights of other cars. Hmm, okay…

The mad dash to Dune 45

We set off and quickly realise: this is a rally. Cars are racing utterly irresponsibly along the tarmac road towards Sossusvlei to see Dune 45 at sunrise. We were already there the day before and were able to see lots of animals. Do the animals already know this and avoid the roads in the morning?! We more or less stick to the speed limits and keep an eye out to make sure no animal wants to cross the road. Whether you have a soft spot for animals or not: stick to the speed limit, especially in the morning! Accidents happen so often in Namibia, including on this stretch of road – especially because tourists completely overestimate themselves. It takes about 40 minutes – with an hour before sunrise you actually have plenty of time.

When we arrive at Dune 45, there are already 4 or 5 cars in the car park. Some visitors are already climbing the dune. So, we are not the only ones who had the idea of climbing Dune 45 at sunrise. Never mind, the view will still be beautiful.

What a beautiful sunrise on Dune 45!

We set off and quickly realise that even early in the morning, before sunrise, you soon get out of breath. Some people stop several times and are really puffing as we overtake them. We keep going. For now… The sand under our feet is so soft that each step becomes more strenuous. From below, Dune 45 does not look that big at all. But we want to be at the top when the sun rises above the dunes and bathes everything in a very special light. So on we go!

After the dune bends, we decide that the view from there will be really good. From this spot you can see how Dune 45 is illuminated from the side. We sit down on the ridge of Dune 45, get the camera out and wait in anticipation for the moment when the sun appears. It is getting lighter and lighter on the horizon.

Then the time comes and you can see the first rays of the sun over the crests of the dunes on the horizon. The dunes are illuminated from the side with red-golden light. The already warm light now shines onto the red sand. We have never seen such an incredible colour! The landscape looks like a silhouette. One side of the dunes is an intense red, the other completely dark and black – with a perfectly sharp line where they meet.

We savour the moment. The landscape looks so beautiful! It is completely quiet up here, the sand swallows every sound. This light and this peace were definitely worth the strenuous climb. We are so glad we decided to see Dune 45 at sunrise!

And back down Dune 45

As we soak up the moment, we notice that the light is getting brighter and harsher. The temperature is also slowly but steadily rising. So we start the descent and carry the cubic metres of sand in our shoes back down Dune 45.

Many people run down Dune 45, or at least try to. We, with our cameras, unfortunately have to give it a miss – but it looks funny. And you have to say: people take longer to get down than we would have expected. That is obviously strenuous too, with the soft sand. Once at the bottom, we empty out the sand and realise once again: it is actually not that high at all! ;-)