Botswana route – 3 weeks from Windhoek

Our Botswana route takes us through some of the most beautiful wilderness areas in southern Africa. On our self-drive round trip we experience unforgettable safari moments in the Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park. Via Kasane we travel through the Zambezi Region back to Namibia. All in all we spend 3 weeks on the road with a Land Cruiser and roof tent. In this article we describe the stages of our Botswana round trip and list all the campsites where we stayed overnight.

After our Namibia round trip with the roof tent it quickly became clear that we had to carry on exploring southern Africa. The chance to observe wildlife and African wilderness has simply captivated us. Barely back from Namibia, we set Botswana as our next destination. In May and June 2019 we travel Namibia and Botswana over three weeks. The focus of our Botswana self-drive trip is the Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park. We are travelling in a Toyota Land Cruiser with roof tent including camping equipment.

Botswana route for 3 weeks

After an overnight flight with Air Namibia we land in Windhoek early in the morning. At Bushlore we pick up our Land Cruiser and spend the first night at Hilltop Guesthouse. On this first day in Namibia we also do our first bit of shopping in the Grove Mall in Windhoek.

As our main destinations are the Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park, we set off towards Botswana the next day. Around midday we reach the border at Buitepos and enter Botswana. Finally it’s time for our first night in the roof tent, which we spend in Ghanzi at the El-Fari Campsite. The campsite is run by a lovely couple who welcome us and supply us with firewood free of charge.

The next day we leave early. The stage destination is Maun. We use this supply town before the wilderness areas for our last bits of shopping. Our to-do list also includes filling up the vehicle and getting permits for the parks from the DWNP (Department of Wildlife). We also want to do a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta. We’ve planned two nights at Audi Camp for this.

Route section:

Windhoek – Ghanzi = 530 kilometres, approx. 6–7 hours

Ghanzi – Maun = 285 kilometres, approx. 3 hours

What we’d like to share with you:

We arrive in Maun on a Sunday. The DWNP office and supermarkets only have limited opening hours at the weekend or on Sundays. Two days in Maun are perfect for us!

Stage destination Moremi

We get up early and set off in good time so that we reach the Moremi Game Reserve as soon as possible. For the first 60 km from Maun we’re still driving on tarmac road. Then the road turns into a gravel road that really shakes us up nicely. That’s how we remember it from Namibia. And what can we say, we think it’s fantastic driving on tracks like these. However, you also need to take care on this route. As the game reserve is not fenced, wildlife can cross the road at any time.

We reach Moremi via South Gate. At the park gate we show our permits and campsite reservations. The friendly staff member also gives us information about the current condition of the tracks. We’ve booked two nights at Third Bridge and another two nights at Khwai/North Gate.

We naturally combine the route between the Third Bridge and Khwai camps with a game drive. We keep leaving the main route and finally reach North Gate via the Fourth Bridge and Xakanaxa Gate, where the Khwai campsite is also located. The section between these two camps is very manageable in a day with game drives.

Route section:

Maun – South Gate = 92 kilometres, approx. 2 hours

South Gate – Third Bridge = 50 kilometres, approx. 2 hours (allow extra time for game drives)

Third Bridge – Khwai/North Gate = 60 kilometres, approx. 3–4 hours

What we’d like to share with you:

We’d happily have stayed longer at both campsites. The landscape and game drives are world-class!

Stage from Khwai to Savuti

After a wonderful time in Moremi we head for Chobe National Park. Based on our previous research, the drive to Savuti seems quite long. We therefore decide to drive via the village of Khwai and take the transit road (also called the main route in the Tinkers Maps). The main route (gravel road) is very easy to drive so we make quick progress up to Mababe Gate. At Mababe Gate it’s time again to show our permits and, as at every gate, we have to enter our details in the registration book provided.

We now have the option of reaching Savuti via the Sand Ridge Road or the Marsh Road. On the spur of the moment we decide on Sand Ridge Road, which turns out to be a real stroke of luck. Around 10 kilometres after the gate we spot our very first leopard. We therefore cover the 60 kilometres of deep sand to Savuti with a broad grin on our faces.

As we immediately explore the Savuti area on a game drive, we only arrive at the camp in the afternoon after a long day. We stay for two nights at Savuti Campsite before continuing on to Linyanti.

Route sections:

Khwai Campsite / North Gate – Mababe Gate = 40 kilometres, approx. 1 hr 10 min

Mababe Gate – Savuti Campsite = 60 kilometres, approx. 6 hours (including game drive)

What we’d like to share with you:

Sand Ridge Road is very monotonous in terms of scenery. There is very dry bush to the left and right of the track. Marsh Road is said to be more varied. However, in that case we wouldn’t have spotted our leopard.

In Chobe National Park – from Savuti to Linyanti

As always we get up around 6.30am and do a bit more game viewing in Savuti before setting off for Linyanti in the late morning. We continue to Linyanti via Sand Ridge Road. This stretch is tough, as it is extremely tiring to drive. The very dry and seemingly lifeless landscape crawls past us at a snail’s pace. Around early afternoon we reach the campsite, which is beautifully situated on the Linyanti River. After so much dryness it feels wonderful to see water and we look forward to the three nights ahead of us.

Route sections:

Savuti – Linyanti = 40 kilometres, approx. 1.5–2 hours

What we’d like to share with you:

As a self-driver you can only do game drives in Linyanti to a very limited extent. You can comfortably cover all the tracks in a single morning. We spent our days relaxing at the campsite and watching the elephants that regularly visited the camp. If you don’t want to spend the time at the campsite as we did, then perhaps only plan one night.

Linyanti to Kasane

We feel wonderfully relaxed after three days in Linyanti. But we’re also looking forward to exploring the next stretch to Kasane. Via the Linyanti Gate we drive in one go to Kasane. Having no idea that this section will take quite a bit of effort, we set off in the morning.

After the Linyanti Gate we’re faced with a wide sandy track with deep ruts. Up to now we’ve managed every stretch without getting stuck. But today what has to happen, happens. Leaving Botswana without getting bogged down in the sand? No, of course that’s not possible! After just the first few kilometres we’re standing next to the car, shovels in hand. The thermometer climbs to the 30 degree mark today and we’re soon dripping with sweat. A short time later the whole thing repeats itself a second and even a third time.

About 10 kilometres before the Ghoha Gate we take the turn-off towards Kachikau. After the junction, driving becomes more relaxed for us. From the village of Kachikau everything suddenly feels a lot more like civilisation again. From here the road to Kasane is tarmac all the way. Via the Ngoma and Sedudu Gate we drive through Kasane and reach the Senyati Campsite.

On this stretch towards Kasane, the first chance to fill up is a Puma petrol station in Muchenje. Some guidebooks still say that the petrol station is under construction. In June the Puma was already in operation.

Route sections:

Linyanti - Kasane = 176 kilometres, approx. 6-7 hours

What we’d like to add:

We originally wanted to drive to Kasane via the Chobe Riverfront, as the wildlife sightings there are bound to be fantastic. Because the drive started off so hard work for us, we then headed straight to Senyati Camp on the tarmac road. If you make faster progress, definitely try this route – it’s said to be great!

Senyati to Nambwa Campsite

We stay two nights at the Senyati Campsite before heading back to Namibia. The camp has a waterhole with a “photo bunker”, which is regularly visited by elephants. In the afternoon we go on a boat safari on the Chobe River. Really wonderful!

We leave Botswana via the border at Ngoma. Back in Namibia we drive via Katima Mulilo on to the Kwando Core Area. There in the Caprivi Strip we spend our longest stay of our Botswana road trip. We’ve booked four nights at the Nambwa Campsite. We spend almost every morning and evening on game drives, admiring hundreds of elephants.

Route sections:

Kasane - Ngoma Gate = 55 kilometres, approx. 1 hour

Ngoma Gate - Nambwa Campsite = 200 kilometres, approx. 4 hours

What we’d like to add:

If you’d like to add a day trip to the Victoria Falls to your stay in Kasane, alongside a boat trip on the Chobe, you should plan an extra day. The Senyati Camp also organises excursions to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

The last leg of our Botswana route – back to Windhoek

Our journey is slowly coming to an end and we have to head back to Windhoek. We leave the Nambwa Campsite and drive to Rundu. The whole stretch is on tarmac and it really drags on. In Rundu we spend one night on the campsite of the Kaisosi River Lodge.

The next day we’re on the road all day again to reach the Waterberg Wilderness. We already know the Waterberg Plateau from last year. This year we spend two nights on the Plateau Campsite and so have one full day when we don’t have to drive at all.

On our last day we drive from the Waterberg back to Bushlore in Windhoek. There we return the Land Cruiser, which has become our home over the last few weeks. As our flight doesn’t leave until around 10pm, the Bushlore staff take us to the Ondekaremba Lodge. The lodge is very close to the airport and offers day use. We spend a relaxing afternoon on the lodge grounds and in the evening we’re taken to the airport by the shuttle service.

Nambwa Campsite - Rundu = approx. 400 kilometres, approx. 5 hours

Rundu - Waterberg = 415 kilometres, approx. 5-6 hours

Waterberg - Windhoek = 290 kilometres, approx. 3 1/2 hours

What we’d like to add:

We spent the last few days doing nothing but driving. We’re therefore very glad to have one full day at the Waterberg on this final leg. It does you an incredible amount of good!

Campsites on our Botswana route

We’re very happy with our Botswana route. We love travelling a little more slowly and staying at least two nights in one place. If you’d like to read more about our experiences while camping in Botswana, you can carry on reading here.

We’ve summarised our Botswana route again:

24 May – arrival in Windhoek, Hilltop Guesthouse (1 night)

25 May – Ghanzi, El-Fari Campsite (1 night)

26 May – Maun, Audi Camp (2 nights)

28 May – Moremi, Third Bridge (2 nights)

30 May – Khwai/North Gate Campsite (2 nights)

1 June – Chobe, Savuti (2 nights)

3 June – Chobe, Linyanti (3 nights)

6 June – Kasane, Senyati Campsite (2 nights)

8 June – Zambezi Region, Nambwa Campsite (4 nights)

12 June – Rundu, Kaisosi River Lodge, campsite (1 night)

13 June – Waterberg Wilderness, Plateau Campsite (2 nights)

15 June – Windhoek, return flight

Do you have any questions about our Botswana route? Feel free to write to us in the comments and tell us what’s on your mind! We’re looking forward to hearing from you!